Enjoying retirement
In The Red Rose County
We did a number of lovely things during Julia and Allan's stay, including a trip to one of our favourite places - Kirkby Lonsdale. Parking as usual at Devil's Bridge, we walked along the beautiful River Lune to the Radical Steps. Unfortunately Ruskin's View is not accessible due to the landslide, but we got an inkling at the top of the steps. The church, St Mary's, is not only historic but sits in a charming setting. This time we ventured inside and were not disappointed. Next to Swine Market............. and then, past the Sun Inn (no food unfortunately).........which was fine as we hit upon a real find. This was Avanti where we sat in the courtyard for lunch, and imagined we were somewhere in France or Italy (really not difficult to do). After lunch, we just strolled around town and enjoyed the streetscape and buildings. We returned to our car along the beautiful riverside path........ Driving home across the Trough of Bowland, we stopped at the centre of the UK ( as determined by O S ). We could have been the only people there......... ..........apart from a family exercising their llamas on the village green (as you would expect). We couldn't then make home without calling at the brilliant Inn at Whitewell. On another day, walking from near home we walked along the north bank of the Ribble ......and across fields to Mitton, where we didn't call at the Three Fishes or the Aspinall Arms (both terrific), but instead had a lovely lunch on the back terrace of the Mitton Hall Hotel. The views from Mitton are pretty good......... We then took the bus to Whalley where we walked through the grounds of St Mary to the Abbey which we hadn't really exlored before. It was something we will certainly do again. A final trip was to Houghton Tower high on its eminence. The tour around the house was interesting if a little basic, and we noted a few things which could have been done more imaginatively. What a lovely week we had. When friends visit you do try to get out and about, and enjoy as much as possible. We certainly did.
0 Comments
Oh I do like to be beside the seaside...... Whose birthday? Dunsop Bridge - The Centre Of The United Kingdom Samlesbury Hall....... Haigh Hall ...... Tom's Table..... The Waterfalls Walk at Ingleton..... Kirkby Lonsdale..... Knaresborough..... Clitheroe and Home......
Another trip to our favourite place, less than an hour away. We park by the river (free) and walk in along the River Lune. The disappointment this time was that the viewing point at the top of the Radical Steps (Ruskin's 'best in the world') was shut for safety reasons - let's hope they sort it soon. The thing about Kirkby Lonsdale is that everywhere you go there are beautiful views and stunning buildings. There is also a fantastic range of independent shops... ...and a market on the day we were there (thursday).... There are in fact several 'market places' including here swine market just as you exit the churchyard.... We decided to have a quick look at nearby Casterton.......... a beautiful and quiet village in a remote setting... and Barbon which is famous for its Churchmouse cheese shop... but we took particular note of the lovely pub where we must have lunch next time..... Talking of cheese, the owner of the White Swan at Fence had told us to go to the Courtyard Dairy at Settle which was on the road back. What an incredible place....surely the best cheese shop in the country? We also made time for tea at Country Harvest, a farm shop on the A65 one of the best and best value stops for tea and cakes we have ever come across and all in magnificent surroundings....
We were going to an evening entertainment with Ed Gamble in Bradford, so took the opportunity to visit Shibden Hall, not too far away. Shibden Hall is now famous as the home of Anne Lister played by Suranne Jones in the excellent TV series 'Gentleman Jack'. In the past it was more infamous than famous as Anne Lister was 'the first modern lesbian' and as such not accepted by the good folk of Halifax. Lister's diaries reveal much about contemporary life in West Yorkshire, including her development of historic Shibden Hall and its estate, and her interests in landscaping, mining, railways, and canals. The hall is hardly a mile away from the centre of Halifax yet it could be another world, tucked away as it is in its private valley. The Hall, dating originally from circa 1420, is a distinctive half-timbered building furnished in the styles of the 17th, 18th and 19th centuries, adapted and extended throughout the centuries by the families who lived here. As soon as you enter you get the feeling of a home that is 'lived in' but reflecting many generations. And the main hall called the 'Housebody' has been altered the most. It was the heart of the house but Anne Lister opened it up to the roof and gave it a baronial feel conversant with her character. Her portrait and that of her Uncle from whom she inherited Shibden hang prominently in the hall. The various downstairs rooms are chock full of interest and full of furniture and artefacts often from Yorkshire. Here the study....... kitchen..... dining room..... Upstairs there is a very intimate feel to all of the bedrooms and the wide oak floorboards are some of the original ones which would have been laid as unseasoned wood and have therefore cracked and buckled over time, or one might say added character! The clock in the bedroom known as the Oak Room was made by Pinchin of Greetland, and the only one he made. There is a small downstairs area where you can have a cup of tea, and the shop has soome nice pieces for sale. We then looked in the aisled barn first recorded in 1677. Today it houses a collection of carriages including.......... .....the Lister Chaise built around 1725 and one of the oldest in the world. It was a travelling carriage for the lister family and has their coat of arms on each door panel. The Park Drag, originally a stagecoach but then a privately owned carriage for days out has an inside toilet. Very very difficult for us to imagine its use with 6 passengers of mixed sex inside! The tack room would have been nice and cosy with the fire roaring away...... Just outside the barn there is a folk museum with a series of reconstructed trades rooms, all very well done indeed.... Because we had time to kill we drove then to the centre of Halifax, and admired some splendid buildings but none so impressive as the enormous Piece Hall. Opened in 1779 for the trade of pieces of cloth it now houses a good collection of shops restaurants and wine bars, meeting rooms and much else. We had a long chat with the bookshop owner (who is hoping to open a shop in Clitheroe), and availed ourselves of the wine bar. Ed Gamble? A huge disappointment. The warm-up act, about 20 minutes, was far from funny and full of the F word as expected. And Ed Gamble was not at all funny, not original, and full of the F word. Nothing to our liking at all. Never mind we had had a really good day.
Another trip to our Afghan tailor in Altrincham meant we could visit one of my favourite towns nearby - Knutsford. After a quick look at some of the many interesting buildings (Ruskin Rooms above), many designed by one architect, Watt, we entered Tatton Park estate with the intention of walking round the lake or mere as they are called round here. It is about a mile long, but then there is another mere to negotiate before reaching the hall itself. Plus unbelievably we had quite a heavy hail and snow storm. At one point we saw a herd of red deer in the trees. I thought I would approach and get as near as I could for a good photo. This female was quite tame...... but there were a number of males who also seemed friendly enough.... ...and I felt brave enough getting within about six feet without disturbing them at all......or more to the point without them disturbing me! The second mere called Melchett Mere was charming and we could now see the hall.... We were looking for toilets and drinks as always and approached around the back which was grand enough in itself.... and luckily we got to the main working courtyard with its cafe before they closed. On the way back we ignored the notice!
A recent trip to our nearest Nationwide Bank in Accrington saw me park 100 yards from the Town Hall which I hadn't see before. After typical ravages by idiotic planners in the 60's and 70's it was nice to see this area had been preserved. The Market Hall next door was equally impressive. What people these Victorians were! Both buildings raised by public subscription. And running up Blackburn Road from them a row of shops which still has the same ashlar finish at upper levels. If only the 60's and 70's planners had never been given birth......... A trip to the nice Afghan tailor in Altrincham meant we could explore another Historic Houses property - Arley Hall in Cheshire. Of all the organisations (National Trust, English Heritage, Art Fund.....) to which we belong or have belonged in the case of the National Trust, Historic Houses which allows access to private houses still lived in by families, is by far the best and best value. The access to the Hall down this avenue of Limes from the car park was suitably impressive. And we passed the cruck barn thought to have been built at the same time as the earlier 1469 house. We toured the house interior. Photos of course disallowed because of insurance purposes presumably. But it was fascinating with its elaborate ceilings and oak panelling, impressive fireplaces, intricate stained glass and beautiful contents. A lot of the design of the by and large Victorian interior and contents was local. Shows we don't have to rely on pesky London firms at all. But the main reason we were here was to see the grounds and gardens which are regarded by some as amongst the best, if not the best, in Europe. They proved indeed magnificent even at this early time of year. A whole series of rooms and themes, everything a sheer delight. And we can't wait to return in Summer to see the absolutely magnificent double herbaceous borders (captured from Arley Hall's site here). But we mustn't forget how lucky we are locally to walk along the Ribble and see the Herons.... ...and at this time of year the cutest lambs you ever did see.......
|
Keith & Frances SmithArchives
August 2023
Categories |